Mummified dog heads sit atop a pile of skulls.

Today we ventured to the Akodessewa neighborhood in search of the Marche des Fetiches. James and Charlie hadn't been to the Fetish Market yet so this would be new for them too. Once we got to the neighborhood, we easily found directions from a fellow who jumped into the car and joined us as a guide. I was surprised at first; in States, that would be carjacking!
    Once we arrived at the market, a solemn, officious man named Joseph introduced himself as our guide. He wore black horn-rimmed glasses which gave him the look of a professeur.
    We were struck first by the smell. While not exactly fetid, it was far from pleasant. The market was arranged around a dirt square, with stalls and tables on three sides.
    Joseph described the market as a pharmacy of raw ingredients. The chief of the market — the Docteur en Medecine Traditionnelle diagnose patient ailments and prescribe the right medicine. The fetishes relate to sociological issues such as love, safety, rest, and power.
    Each table was covered with a plethora of mummified animals, bones, skins, quills, stones, and sculptures. The first table alone had dried vultures, owls, bats, small primate skulls, and an enormous hippo skull with antelope horns balanced on top.
    Once the right fetish is prescribed, the chief gives the fetishes their true power. Each fetish is personalized for the individual. The four of us were taken into the chief's room; since the chief was out, his son acted as his proxy. Once we sat down on benches in order of our ages, Joseph brought out various fetishes and explained their purposes.

Telephone Fetish length: 65 cm This fetish protects you during your travels. Indications: whisper into the hole your request for safe passage. Plug the hole with the stopper and carry the fetish in your pocket or bag. Once you've reached your destination, unplug the fetish until its next use.
	Sweet Dreams diameter: 50 cm This ebony seed is a beautiful object. It fits deliciously into the palm of your hand. This fetish helps you get a good night's rest. Indications: Place 3 drops of water on the seed. Rub the seed across your forehead, right to left, left to right, right to left. Then rub the seed down and up and down your forehead. Place the seed under your pillow.     Ebony seeds also make great key chains.
Poison Free length: 50 cm This fetish consists of 2 cowry seeds on a small leather sack containing 41 different herbs. It protects you against poisoning and brings good luck. Should you hold a glass that's been poisoned, the glass will break.
	Love Cementer length: 30 cm This fetish cements love. Indications: Place 3 drops of perfume on the fetish. Place in the man's left hand and cover with the woman's left hand.
Leba: Home Protector height to feathers: 100 cm hair is additional 160 cm Protect your home and family with the leba. This house god requires a gift once a year. A cigarette or 3 drops of booze will do.
No photo: it looks like a tree branch as thick as a forefinger. We didn't buy any of this.	Viagra Africain Indications for Viagra Africain: wash the stick and cut off a little bit into a glass of liquor to soak for 1/2 a day. Share a sip with your lover. Wait 15 minutes before making love. To quote musician Tom Waits, it makes you 'harder than Chinese algebra.'

Fleecing
After the show and tell, Joseph gave us each a large shell. "Choose what fetishes you uwant and put them in the shell." Stupidly, Brian and I chose one of each fetish except the "Viagra Africain." The chief's son said the proper incantations as each of us had our fetishes personalized.
    Joseph then separated the two couples and took in separate pairs to the next for more incantations and payment.
    The chief's son threw 4 cowry shells 3 times. This was to tell him how much to charge. The shells must have told him to fleece those American tourists good because Brian and I each had to pay CFA 25,000 (US $41.75)! We nearly shat. Had we known how expensive the fetishes were, we would've gotten only the leba house god.
    We emerged from the dark rooms, stunned by our fleecing. We did not dare argue about the price; we didn't want to be cursed. Children sidled up to us asking for cadeaux. Begging bothers me a great deal. It's one thing to sell your wares and even fleecing a tourist can be a legitimate way to make a living. I would rather give money to an enterprising child who makes toys out of junk than a child who simply holds out his cupped hand.
    As we drove away, James offered this comfort: "In the long term it's the experience you'll remember. The money is a short term gulp."

Baguida Beach
Our next stop was Baguida Beach, a quiet place with only a few locals and even fewer tourists. As soon as the car stopped, we were surrounded by a swarm of boys offering their services as guards for our cars. James spoke to a little boy in blue shorts who eagerly took charge of the car.
    Begging seemed to be an anathema in Lomé. That's not to say it isn't done. The influx of rich foreigners only exacerbates the problem. But rather than beg, many children and young adults have transformed the meaning of WORK. In Togo, everything is work and should be compensated.
    Being industrious and clever, children have turned watching cars into a small industry. No one will mess with a car that has a dozen children milling about it. The cost for this service? I think James paid CFA 100, which comes out to nothing, in American dollars. During our visit, CFA 1,000 = US$1.75. This service was so inexpensive that James joked about hiring a small boy full-time, just to sit in the passenger seat.
    Leaving the car under the care of the boys, we walked to the beach. The water's current was fierce. Brian could only swim east, along the beach. The current was so strong that it dumped sand in his swimming trunks. His bum got polished!
    After playing in the water, we walked west on the beach towards the remains of Le Tropicana, once a thriving resort. Since the political troubles, the resort lies in ruin. The only sounds now are the wind and the twittering of bats.

An Evening with Tchao Bamaze
That evening, Brian and I walked over to meet Tchao at the British school. He drove us to his house, just outside the city limits. Brian and I were surprised Tchao remembered his offer for drinks. In Chicago, people are so casual about such invitations. "Let's have lunch" is just another way of saying "good bye."
    Tchao shares an sort of compound with a dozen relatives including his wife Mme. Bamaze, 2 sons, his father, siblings, various cousins, and in-laws. The house exterior is ringed by smaller living quarters, extra bathrooms, and the hen house. The garden consists of 4 fruit trees and a pepper bush. Tchao's sons, about 14 and 7, shyly greeted us. The youngest one was working with his tutor (on a Saturday!) at an outdoor blackboard.
    We sat and talked under a papaya tree in the courtyard, sitting on living room furniture brought out for the occasion. The Bamazes shared old and new photographs. Even in Africa, no one escaped bellbottoms!
    Mme. Bamaze prepared a gouter or snack of Guinea fowl with a very hot, delicious tomato and onion sauce, served with wedges of fried potato and yam. Big bottles of Pils beer cooled our mouths.
    As the evening went on, Tchao's friends started arriving. Some of his friends go way back childhood, when they grey up in a small village in northern Togo. The first 2 guests were a trained lawyer who now teaches French and another who just started an NGO (Non Governmental Organization) for democracy education. This second man told us a very funny story about his university days in Montreal. He had tried skiing and generally dressed like an Eskimo.
    He also told me and Brian that we should visit the countryside while in Togo. "To know the country, you must see the hinterland!"
    More friends arrived and soon everyone was laughing and speaking vigorously. The men teased their wives and each other. Tchao's birth name is Henri and that's what his oldest friends call him. He said, "If you go to my village and ask if Tchao's family is here, they won't know who you're talking about!" In 1971, President Eyadema proclaimed all Togolese discard their European names. In spite of the decree, many Togolese use both European and African names.

Chin chin!
Tchao gave us the story behind a favorite toast: President Eyadema has about a sixth grade education. Those who oppose him make jokes, for example the following: Le President visited the premier of China. They dined together and the premier proposed a common toast: "Chin! Chin!" (which imitates the sound of glasses clinking) Thinking the Premier's toast was nationalistic, Le President responded, "Togo! Togo!"
    Tchao was a splendid host and he invited us back for May 1 celebrations. As we left, I was struck by Tchao's wealth of family and friends. He is one of the most gracious men I've ever met. •