day 15 Day 15:  Green, Green Kpalimé

Mtn. Agou
We catch a glimpse of Mount Agou as we near Kpalimé.

Today was Labor Day, the penultimate day of our stay in Togo. We decided to make an overnight trip north into the hinterland. Sadly, we had to decline Tchao Bamaze's invitation to May Day celebrations if we wanted to make the trip. A l'année prochain.
    Charlie thinks that Kpalimé is one of the most beautiful regions of Togo. This part of the country is truly lush. As we neared Kpalimé, saw could see Mt. Agou, the highest point in Togo. We drove through a teak forest which merged with endless greenery. Since their favorite hotel was full, we found new accomodations at le Detente, a spacious, clean and cheap hotel. Our rooms were only CFA4,000 each with a fan and shared bathroom. What made us especially happy was the hotel's promise to make fufu for us that night! Fufu is freshly pounded fermented cassava, an essential part of West African dining.

The Waterfalls
Our next stop was Cascades de Kpimé, a beautiful waterfall 10 km north of town. We darted in the cold falls, ate couscous and chatted with the children who hung around us.
    The children liked talking but, as it happens all too often, the conversation steered towards profit. They're not thugs; they're just persistent. Thankfully, they eased off graciously when I made it clear I was not giving them money. I promised photographs instead.
    Then we went to Campement de Kloto, a small hotel near the top of Mnt Pluto. On our way up the mountain, we were temporarily stopped by a group of children who had strung a ragged rope across the road. Cadeaux! Cadeaux! Cheeky buggers! Senior students from the British School were staying at the Campement and James wanted to say hello. A group of Lomé French guests had taken over the hotel so the students and teachers couldn't shower.
    The presence of even just a handful of tourists attracted a group of artisan merchants to the Campement. The most facinating displays were boxes of butterflies and insects. I loved them but they were far too delicate to take back to the States. Instead, I bought some fun jewelry from a man who said I was his luck charm because I was his first customer that day.
    We walked up to the top of the mountain and we were rewarded with a stunning view.
    As the afternoon came to a close, we dropped by the local School for the Blind. Profits from the giftshop went to the students. We even saw Hubert's cards there! Brian purchased a beautiful hand carved woaley board. Woaley has as many names in Africa as it has rules. You can describe it as a sort of backgammon.

Evening
Brian was anxious to play his woaley game and he found 2 staff members at le Detent were eager to teach him. They played at lightening speed and were all too happy to explain the intricasies of the game.
    The Copes joined us for a pre-dinner game of Scrabble. James' first three words where shag, sexy, and orgy. Brian arose like a phoenix from the ashes and regained his throne as Scrabble Champion. I came in last, but with honor.
    Dinner was excellent. The fufu was served with a delicious chicken and peanut sauce. The chicken had real meat! One simply gathered a little ball of fufu with the right hand and dipped it into the sauce and meat. Thank you, le Detente, for making our last dinner in Africa perfect.

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On our way up the mountain, we were temporarily stopped by a group of children who had strung a ragged rope across the road. Cadeau! Cadeau! Cheeky buggers!

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day 16: snooker before we go