Essential Gear
I couldn't have done without these items:

Journal
Absolutely essential. Add to that, a small pad of paper good for taking notes and getting addresses.

Camera
Think small. I love my Olympus Stylus Epic, a delicious little 35mm camera with serious features. Colors are either black or champagne. Check out the zoom model too.
    I regretted not bringing a Polaroid camera. It's a great way to give a quick cadeau of thanks.

Film + Other Accessories
Not all airports are willing to hand examine film so consider an x-ray proof bag. I found 100 to 200 ASA was suitable for the bright, bright light in Togo and Benin.

Field Organizer
I was never without my Eagle River field organizer, which I wore on my hip. It's a sleeker alternative to fanny packs and was still large enough to hold my camera, money, and a pad of paper. Mine is a discrete dark green.

Teva Sandals
Another essential. A good rain can really muck up a dirt road. But it's no problem when you've got Tevas, the best damn sandals in the world.